El Questro

We arrived at El Questro with dark clouds looming. We booked El Questro the day before at Home Valley Hill and the only vacancies were on a private river campsite. We were pretty happy with that. Everyone at El Questro looked so clean and all their clothes and cars were sparkling. They obviously had driven via Kununura on the bitumen and not where we had come from!!! 

That night it poured rain on and off, but we found out later that it was only 10ml. We were in shock with all the other campers as it just doesn't rain in July in the Kimberley! At least it kept the dust down. The photo above and below is of a small river crossing to get to Explosion Gorge. There are many self drive tours and walks within El Questro and we booked for 4 nights.

Explosion Gorge

Sandwich Hole

Our campsite was called Willie Wagtail. It was 6km from the main station area where there is a shop, cafe, restaurant, bar, tour office etc so we did plenty of driving back and forth. We thought we would see more of the river at our camp but as you can you see, it wasn't an open riverfront. It was however very private.

Michael made a rope with knots all the way along it, that was tied from a tree to the water so that if anyone fell into the river then they could pull themselves up quick enough before a saltie got them. The banks of the river were steep enough though.

At night we heard and saw Barking Owls. We also went Cane Toad Bustering at night. We caught about 40 overall and the girls thought it was the best fun. They would have the torches and yell and squeal "there's one Daddy" as Michael would scoop it up into a sandcastle bucket and then tip into my bucket, where I would place my beach bat over the bucket so they wouldn't jump out. Sometimes our transfer wasn't always well executed and one would jump out, much to the squeals of the girls. Cane Toads are very slow and you can tell the difference between a frog and a toad pretty easily as the toads hop in small bounds whereas frogs can jump quite high. They are ugly things and some of the sizes of these toads was frightening! The girls begged us each night if they could catch some cane toads- "alright, but only if you are good at dinner!"

The walk into Zebedee Springs is exactly how it looks. Palms and Pandanus line the narrow track that lead to beautiful warm thermal spring pools, with waterfalls. It was only a short walk to Zebedee and a lovely change from the refreshing temps of the other waterholes. The only walk on the Gibb River Road that you could walk in thongs. 

If ever there was a tip about when to travel the Kimberley, it would be when you are fully physically fit. Most walks into the Gorges involve scrambling over rocks for a couple of kilometres, whether they be small or large rocks. You would get the most out of The Kimberley if you could walk into the Gorges, as opposed to just driving the Gibb River Road. The Kimberley has so much to offer to everyone who is willing to see it. You cannot possibly be disappointed with the sheer beauty, colour, friendliness and grandness of the far west! In saying that, you do need a very capable 4wd that can handle the corrugations, river crossings and rough roads.

The Gibb River Road is about 600-750km long but when you add up all the side roads to drive into the Stations/National Parks, and Gorges within, we calculated that we drove over 2000km along the Gibb. Always a good option to have a long range fuel tank as well, as some of the Roadhouses/stores may advertise Fuel but if the Fuel truck is held up or if that roadhouse is only open for certain hours each day then you want to know that you have enough fuel to last you til the next fuel stop.

The view from Pigeon Hole Lookout. Not a 4wd track for everyone!

Rubes went horse riding and joined in on Junior Rangers Program. They learnt about crocodiles and the difference between fresh and saltwater crocs. Olive was too little for both activities.

We went to Emma gorge and on the walk in we saw what looked like a King Brown Snake, in certain lights, but turned out to be an Olive Python. They camoflouge well don't they- it's a bit like 'Where's Wally?'

Emma Gorge

It was prett chilly in the water and you could feel the drops from the waterfall right in the middle of the pool. A stunning Gorge.

 At El Questro we did Emma, El Questro, Moonshine and Zebedee and swam at all of them.

The walk into El Questro.

El Questro Gorge

Rubes swinging off the roots from a Rock Fig.

The Golden Tree snake that reared up to Rubes about a metre away from her. At the time it looked more like a Brown snake than in this photo.

In the background of this photo you can see the blue diamonds on the rocks. They were are walking markers.

A river crossing to get to El Questro Gorge.

Whilst at El Questro, Michael had always wanted to do a fishing trip up in the Kimberley so he booked on a half day tour and came back with nothing. Not even a niggle, bite or smelly fishy clothes. Not the season for the Barra but it was worth a try. I also did a horse riding sunset tour. We clip clopped our way through river crossings, and grasslands and then up a ridge for sunset nibbles and drinks. It was a magic afternoon and a memorable way to see the sights of the Cockburn Ranges (pronounced Coburn for obvious reasons). My horse, Noss reared up and gave the horse behind a good kicking as it got a bit too close. I was hanging on and didn't realise how good a leg workout I'd had until I got off, and felt it the next day. I was certainly walking like a cowgirl!

The swimming hole that ran parallel with the main camping ground was idyllic. Again it had Pandanus and Palms surrounding it and was a lovely temperature to swim in.

After our girls participated in an Arts Class( not the activity that we thought they would do in El Questro, but they loved it and made some great artistic canvas) we had a swim in the swimming hole, then drove up Saddleback Ridge for sunset.

The view was amazing!

Kununura and Lake Argyle

We spent a night in Kununura and really liked our stay there. We stayed at Kimberleyland Caravan Park and it's located right on the Ord River. It's a very picturesque town and we could've spent a few days there. We got fish n Chips that night and ate it down on the banks whilst we listened to a one  man band organised by the CP. It was nice to get full phone reception.

We bought some fruit n veges from this Western Desert produce co-op and Rubes had the camera. The pumpkin weighed 41kg.

The drive into Lake Argyle was spectacular. The BITUMEN meandered amongst King Leopold sandstone ranges covered in spinifex, Boabs and Kapok trees. We'd organised in Kununura that Mum and Dad would meet us at Lake Argyle and we didn't tell the girls. "That looks like Poppy" said Ruby as they drove into the site next to us.

Lake Argyle Caravan Park/Resort is one of the best caravan parks I've been to. There was no jumping pillow or playground but it had the best views in all directions. It also had a pretty average pool.

See what I mean- just average!!! It was incredible and freezing at the same time!

Mum n Dad looked after the girls whilst we went on a Sunset Cruise on Lake Argyle. Lake Argyle is 19 times the size of Sydney Harbour.

There is time for a sunset swim with a beer or wine. It was simply divine and for a moment we had forgotten about all our responsibilities.

There are over 25 000 freshwater crocs in Lake Argyle.

Wallaroo

We had a look in the "original" Durack Homestead. It was interesting as I started reading Kings in Grass Castles on this holiday but found it too heavy and had to postpone my history literature for a more recent book in "Birdsville" which I found very hard to put down. 

 

Ord River/Lake Argyle dam wall.

Ord River.Taken from the top of the Dam Wall 

 

We will definitely return to Lake Argyle. A great spot.

Home Valley

We had travelled along Kalumburu Rd in good time and the road was surprisingly better as we passed the Grader halfway through. I even managed to grab a fly-catching nap in the passenger seat! 

We thought we might push through Drysdale Stn and head to Ellenbrae. We knew that Ellenbrae was shady and served up scones to the weary traveller and were pretty keen for some. When we arrived at Ellenbrae the sign out the front from the Gibb said that it was full. Noooooooooooooo!

We had talked up the scones to the girls and told them to hang in there til we reach the scones! We gave the option to the girls as to whether we free camped along the Durack River or continued on to Home Valley. They preferred Home Valley as they knew it had a pool! We turned on Peppa Pig audio stories for the remainder of the hour to Home Valley! It was just like TV said the girls!!! (Thank you Auntie Kirsty and Uncle Mark)!!!

We thought we would have no trouble booking into Home Valley but it was pretty full due a wedding and school holidays for WA and NT. We scored a riverside camp and were treated to this amazing landscape, right on the Pentecost River.

Due to the wedding no one was allowed to camp in the "quiet" area but only in the generator area. Reluctantly we camped in the generator area but luckily for us there weren't many "gennies"! Straight after the wedding the campground filled up with people queuing to get in. 

After our amazing sunset, the moon rose. How lucky we were!

A few pics of the reception area and restaurant.

We spent our time at Home Valley swimming in the pool, driving up to Home Valley Hill to get reception and just lazing around. 2 nights was all we spent as most attractions had to be booked on a tour and they were all booked out! You can't go on any self drive tours, it all has to be on a tour and it was expensive. There were a few walking trails but we thought our girls could just relax and enjoy the pool and ice creams!

Clouds were building but we thought it surely can't rain in the Kimberley in July???